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LIBRARY OE, CONGRESS. 

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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



PRACTICAL CARVING 



THOMAS J. MURREY 

AUTHOR OF " FIFTY SOUPS," " FIFTY SALADS," " BREAKFAST 

DAINTIES," "puddings AND DAINTY DESSERTS," "THE 

BOOK OF ENTRIES," " COOKERY FOR INVALIDS," 

" VALUABLE COOKING RECIPES," ETC. 



OF TWENTY YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN CARVING 



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NEW YORK 

FREDERICK A. STOKES 

Successor to White. Stokes, & Allen 

1887 



('Jul- J 






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Copyright, 1887, 

By FREDERICK A. STOKES, 

Successor to White, Stokes, & Allen. 



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DEDICATION. 

To 
My Dear Friend 

W. W. STICKNEY 

(with the United-States Hotel t%venty-five years ago) 

\ ©etiicate tftis OTorit, 

/;/ token of appreciation of the many hours he 

spent in instructing me in the 7ninute 

details of carving. 

THOMAS J. MURREY. 



PREFACE. 



From my earliest recollection, I was taught 
to consider a thorough knowledge of the art of 
carving an important part of my education ; and 
the memories of my early struggles to master the 
art are vividly before me. 

The patience that was exhausted upon me, 
while training my youthful hands to hold the 
knife properly, was certainly not appreciated by 
me at the time. 

I could not see why it was important that 
my thumb, instead of the forefinger, should be 
placed on the back of the knife, when the latter 
way seemed more easy. Neither did I realize 
it to be an accomplishment to be able to carve 
with the left hand equally as well as with the 
right, 

5 



6 PREFACE. 

Now that I have arrived at a more mature 
age, I see and appreciate the importance of 
these things that seemed but trifles to me when 
I was young. I had often heard my father say 
that a young man's education was incomplete 
without a knowledge of carving, and his sons 
had every reason to believe he was serious in 
what he said. 



CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

THE CARVING-KNIFE . , 9 

TO STAND OR SIT WHILE CARVING 11 

BEEF. 

Roast Ribs of Beef. How to Hold 

THE Knife 12 

Sirloin of Beef 13 

Tenderloin of Beef . . . 14 
Chuck-rib Roast . . . .14 

Miscellaneous Roasting Pieces . 14 
Porter-house Steak . . . .14 

Beef Tongue . . . . . 15 

MUTTON AND LAMB. 

Leg of Mutton 16 

Shoulder of Mutton . . . 16 

Saddle of Mutton . . . • 17 

Saddle of Lamb . . . . 18 

Leg of Lamb 18 

Fore-quarter of Lamb . . . 19 

Lamb's Tongue 19 

7 



8 CONTENl'S. 

VEAL. ^^'^'^ 

Leg of Veal 20 

Fillet of Veal . . . 20 
Shoulder of Veal . . . .21 

Loin of Veal 21 

Calf's Tongue 22 

PORK. 

Sucking Pig 22 

Leg of Pork 22 

Ham 23 

POULTRY AND GAME. 

Domestic Duck . . . . . 24 

Goose 25 

Canvas- BACK Duck . . . .26 

Red-head Duck . . . . 27 

Teal Duck 27 

Spring Chicken. How to Select and 

HOW TO Carve . . . . 27 

Boiled Capon 28 

Roast Turkey 29 

Squab 30 

English Pheasant . . . . 31 

Prairie Chicken 31 

FISH 32 

SERVING SAUCES WITH MEATS . 33 

REMARKS ON BONING MEAT , 33 



PRACTICAL CARVING. 



THE CARVING-KNIFE. 

In the stone age, when the savage tried his 
best to carve with a dull stone knife, he doubtless 
swore mentally; and while we have advanced 
to a marked degree beyond the savage and his 
food, and his implements for dividing that food, 
his barbaric trait of mental swearing is still with 
us, and will probably remain with us until the 
end of time, or until our servants realize that 
the carving-knife was not a tool originally in- 
tended by the head of the family for dissecting 
kindling-wood or peeling potatoes. 

Is there any thing more exasperating to a 
carver, at the aimouncement of dinner, than to 
find that his pet knife, which had been sharpened 
by an expert the day before, had that very day 
been used by some one to cut wire or equally 
hard substance ? 

9 



lO KNIFE GRINDING. 

Flashes of wit and humor may abound until 
the moment of carving arrives, a«a the jolliest 
family party that ever gathered around the ma- 
hogany will be enveloped in gloom by the efforts 
of a carver at work Afith a dull knife. 

The grim, contorted face plainly indicates his 
feelings of discomfort and mental suffering. To 
you who are responsible for that dull knife, we 
would say, do you imagine the carver enjoys his 
task, or will enjoy his dinner? 

Who does not think, with us, that a dull knife 
is a thing of terror? It certainly breeds dys- 
pei)sia ; it makes delicious viands unsavory ; and 
many a family quarrel has emanated from it. 

After the carving- tools have been used, they 
should be thoroughly cleaned, and the knives 
should be sharpened and well rubbed with a 
woollen cloth on which a little olive oil has been 
poured, when they should be wrapped in chamois 
'-. and put away under lock and key. 

Knife Grinding. — Hold the knife perfectly 
flat against the stone, so that the blade evenly 
traverses the stone from point to handle. In 
no other way will the knife retain its edge. To 
spoil the knife completely, put a rounding edge 
on the knife. 

To Steel the Knife. — The instructions 
issued by Curley Brothers for sharpening a carv- 



TO STAND OR SIT WHILE CARVING. II 

ing-knife are so complete, that we take the Hberty 
of embodying them in this work. 

" A carver must be held at an angle of twenty 
to twent3'-five degrees on the steel. 

" Be careful to have the angle same on both 
sides, so as to sharpen instead of dulling the knife. 

" Draw it on the steel from heel to point against 
the edge ; only a very slight pressure required." 



TO STAND OR SIT WHILE CARVING. 

The height of chair and table has much to do 
with the question, To stand or sit while carving. 

It is exceedingly awkward to carve when 
sitting in a low chair before a high table. 

In this position one cannot divide the parts in 
neat and appetizing forms. Small dishes such as 
steaks, and all birds, from the cock-sparrow to 
the princely canvas-back, are of course carved 
sitting. 

The carver's chair should be cushioned enough 
to bring the elbow of the carver almost on a line 
with the table. 

It is a good rule to follow, that the seat of the 
carver's chair should not be more than twelve 
inches below the level of the table, as a lower 
seat forces the arms into an unskilful position. 



12 ROAST RIBS OF BEEF. 



BEEF. 



Roast Ribs of Beef. How to hold the 
Knife. — There are two ways of carving roast 
beef, and the rules will equally apply to the rib 
roast or the sirloin roast. 

Fhst, Place the ribs on the platter with the 
thickest part towards you, and with the crisp, 
brown, fat surface up ; and trim off all burnt 
pieces, and all the small pieces of backbone 
overlooked by the dealer. Insert the fork in 
the centre of the joint, midway between the 
ends and right and left sides j cut off two slices 
from the right-hand side, and reserve them for 
those who desire " well-done " beef. Now run 
the point of the knife along the whole length 
of the rib, parallel with it, and immediately next 
to it, and make a cut an inch deep over the 
rib. Hold the knife gracefully, but firmly, and 
with thumb extended over the back of the knife, 
instead of the forefinger, and cut thin slices down 
to the bone, when they will fall on the platter 
in neat, whole slices. 

With the finger extended over the back of the 
knife, you do not have the same control over 
the knife as when the thumb is extended ; and 



SIRLOIN OF BEEF. 1 3 

you cannot, therefore, cut a slice that will be 
of equal thickness throughout. When carving 
small pieces of meat, game, etc., this rule is not 
imperative. 

Second, Place the meat on the platter, as de- 
scribed in the foregoing, and trim it ; turn it on 
end, with the thickest part towards you, and the 
crisp, brown skin, or rather fat, to your right. 
Insert the fork between the ribs, which are now 
to the left, and carve towards the left. The 
object gained in this mode of carving is that 
the juices remain in the meat instead of running 
out and on to the platter ; and in this way the 
slices contain their full quota of juice, and are 
therefore more desirable. 

Sirloin of Beef. — This joint of beef may 
be placed on the platter after the modes de- 
scribed in "roast beef." The thickest end is 
placed towards you, and the black and burnt 
outside neatly trimmed. Then run the point 
of the knife along the flat bone at the right, and 
cut in about an inch deep ; then cut slices from 
the right side. Should the flank be too large, 
it is best and more economical to cut it off in 
one piece. The tenderloin, when not intended 
to be served cold, should be cut out, and each 
guest receive a small slice of it in addition to 
the sirloin. They appreciate tenderloin, and 
your servants might not. 



14 TENDERLOIN OF BEEF. 

Tenderloin of Beef. — Request the dealer 
to remove the thin membraneous sack envelop- 
ing the meat, and either lard the latter by the aid 
of a larding needle, or cover it with a long thin 
piece of larding pork. When cooked, place it 
on the platter, and carve across the loin, begin- 
ning at the thickest end, which should be to the 
right. The slices should be about twice as thick 
as slices of roast beef. A good gravy or sauce 
should accompany tenderloin, as it is a some- 
what dry meat, having but little flavor of its own, 
tenderness being its only recommendation. 

Chuck-rib Roast. — Notwithstanding the 
fact that this piece of beef is much cheaper than 
other rib cuts, it is usually avoided by house- 
keepers, who find it troublesome and unsatis- 
factory to carve. Remove the blade bone 
before roasting. After roasting, cut the piece 
of shoulder meat free from the thick, juicy part, 
place it on a separate plate, and carve it across 
the grain ; serve a slice of it with each slice of the 
choice part ; and, by pouring over it a little of 
the *' dish gravy," it becomes quite presentable. 

Miscellaneous Roasting Pieces of 
Beef, such as the rump, aitchbone, round, and 
rolled meat, should be car\'ed across the grain. 

Porter-house Steak. — Trim off all sur- 
plus fat, which is apt to burn while cooking, and 



BEEF TONGUE. 1^ 

make an unnecessary amount of smoke. Ex- 
amine the thickest end, and carefully remove 
minute particles of bone which may adhere to the 
steak and produce inflammation of the intestines, 
when swallowed. Do not remove the bone which 
separates the sirloin from the tenderloin, as it 
keeps the steak in shape ; after broiling the steak, 
add to it a walnut of the best table butter, salt, 
and white pepper ; place it on the table, and sepa- 
rate both pieces of meat from the bone. Divide 
the tenderloin into as many pieces as there are 
guests. Cut the sirloin into strips an inch and 
a half wide, and across the grain, and serve to 
each guest a piece of each. 

Beef Tongue. — From an economical point 
of view, it is best to serve the tip of the tongue 
first, as it will dry up quickly and become in- 
digestible if allowed to stand a few days. Trim 
off the ragged, thick end, and remove the httle 
bones found therein ; cut a two-inch piece from 
the tip of the tongue, and slice it as thin as 
possible. 



1 6 LEG O? MUTTON. 



MUTTON AND LAMB. 

Leg of Mutton. — The leading silversmiths 
make a shank-holder which is more useful to 
the carver of a leg of mutton than the fork ; and, 
when one of these is not at hand, white paper 
wrapped around the bone may be substituted. 
Cut from outer side of the leg of mutton, and 
lengthwise of the leg, a good-sized slice ; this 
prevents the leg from moving about the dish 
whenever touched, and brings the inner or thick- 
est part of the mutton conveniently before the 
carver. Hold the shank firmly, and cut into 
the centre of the leg to the bone. The first 
two slices should be slightly wedge-shaped, and 
should be served to those who really appreciate 
the " Pope's eye " of mutton. SHce from the 
thickest part before carving from the lower part, 
and with each slice a thin slice of fat should be 
served. 

The wise carver serves the toothsome bit 
known as the knuckle to himself. We think he 
deserves this nugget of sweetness. 

Shoulder of Mutton. — The blade is a 
"bone of contention" to the beginner in carv- 
ing. Its mission seems to be the trying of one's 



SADDLE OF IMUTTON. 1 7 

patience, and the destruction of the carver's 
appetite. I advise my readers, who cannot suc- 
cessfully carve this joint, to ask the butcher to 
give them a few lessons in boning it ; after which 
they will have little trouble to carve it, knowing 
the location of the bones. Turn the shoulder 
on its edge, with the outside or upper part to- 
wards you, and cut slices from the top edge ; 
the first slices which are cut from the top are 
nearly all fat, and are placed one side, and 
pieces of them served with the lean. Now cut 
slices from the part above the knuckle, and 
down to it, until the bones are exposed. Then 
place the joint flat on the dish, and slice from 
both sides of the blade-bone ridge ; then remove 
the blade-bone, and cut the remainder of the 
joint across the grain. 

Saddle of Mutton. — Trim off all surplus 
flank and fat, as it is only in the carver's way, 
and seldom, if ever, eaten by the guests. Press 
the sides well in, and wind a string around the 
joint, to hold it in good form. After roasting, 
place it on the table, with the tail end to the left. 

As to how the joint should be carved, is a 
question decided by the number of guests and 
the host's idea of economy. The economical 
host will carve thus : Make a long deep cut 
parallel with the backbone, and cut away one 



1 8 SADDLE OF LAMB. 

side of the loin in one whole piece, but let it 
remain in place, and cut slices across the grain, 
beginning at the right. Carve the other side of 
the loin in the same manner. If the tenderloin 
is wanted, turn the joint, and cut it out entire. 

When the question of economy " has nothing 
to do with the case," the mode of carving is as 
follows : Make a deep cut the whole length, 
and parallel with the backbone, and cut long, 
even one-eighth-inch slices with the grain ; then 
divide each slice into pieces not over five inches 
long. The carving must be done quickly, as 
the fat cools rapidly, in which condition it cloys 
on the palate. 

Saddle of Lamb. — This joint is the choi- 
cest of spring meats. It comes to us at a season 
of the year when game of all kinds is in poor 
condition (even if allowed to be sold), and for 
private dinner parties we know of no dish that 
equals it. The rules for carving it are the same 
as those for carving the loin of mutton. 

Leg of Lamb. — By this term we mean a 
leg having the loin attached, and called a hind- 
quarter, which is the cut generally sold in New 
York. When the family is small, cut off the 
loin and use it for chops, and roast the leg, which 
is carved much the same as a leg of mutton. 
It being very tender, one part of it is no more 



FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB. 1 9 

choice than another; and the only care to be 
exercised is to keep in mind that cold lamb is 
the daintiest of cold meats. The joint should 
therefore be carved in as neat a manner as 
possible, to have a presentable cold joint for the 
following meal. 

Fore-Quarter of Lamb. — From the fore- 
quarter of lamb only do we obtain those delight- 
ful little chops, and a few of them should in- 
variably be cut from the joint before it is roasted. 
The breast, or brisket, is another part of the 
joint from which an excellent dish is made. 

After roasting, place the joint on the platter, 
and with the breast towards you. The first cut 
should be the removal of the shoulder, with the 
blade-bone attached ; and each guest should 
receive a dainty rib, a piece of the brisket, or, if 
preferred, a shoe from the shoulder. 

Lamb's Tongue. — These tidbits are in- 
variably served whole ; but they look more 
appetizing when cut in two lengiliwise, and each 
half temptingly arranged on a crisp leaf of 
lettuce, with quarters of lemon on the sides 
of the dish. 



30 LEG OF VE.AL. 



VEAL. 



Leg of Veal. — Aside from the excellent 
soups and sauces made from veal, the toothsome 
kidney, delicious sweetbreads, and the head, 
Americans are not, as a class, fond of veal ; and 
a whole leg of veal is seldom seen upon their 
tables. It is a profitable joint, however, for 
large families, and from it may be cut the cutlets 
for the cooking of which the Germans hold the 
secret. After the leg is cooked, delightful 
croquettes may be made from that which is left 
after dinner. The carving of a leg of veal is a 
simple matter, after the hip-bone has been 
removed, which should be done before the leg 
is cooked. Place the leg on a large platter, 
the thicker end to the right, and the shank to the 
left. Carve slices from the thickest side of 
the leg-bone first, and then from the other side, 
to keep the face of the joint as even as possible. 

I have seen carvers carve this joint the same 
as recommended for the carving of a leg of 
mutton ; but too much waste was the usual 
result. 

Fillet of Veal is a long strip of veal cut 
from the leg. It is the best part of the leg, in 



SHOULDER OF VEAL. 21 

fact. This is larded with either bacon or salt 
pork, and cooked and served the same as fillet 
of beef. To carve, place the thickest end to 
the right, and cut across the grain. 

Shoulder of Veal. — This joint being much 
larger than a shoulder of mutton, I have found 
it more convenient to cut off the fore-leg and 
the blade from the ribs, which, if the breast or 
brisket is not removed, will be too long. They 
should be chopped in two before being cooked. 

When the butcher neglects to separate the 
ribs with the cleaver, cut the meat clean from 
the bone, and save the bones for soup meat. If 
instinct will not tell the carver which way to 
carve the meat after it is cut from the bone, 
books cannot. 

Loin of Veal. — A loin of veal is that part 
of the animal between the hip-bone and ribs. 
It covers the tenderloin and kidneys, and does 
not have ribs as declared in a recent publica- 
tion. 

To carve, place the joint with the thickest 
part towards you. Make one long cut along the 
backbone, separate meat from bone entirely, 
and send the bone from the table. Carve the 
meat across the grain, from flank to loin. 

A small loin of veal should have the back- 
bone separated into three-quarter-inch pieces. 



CALF S TONGUE. 



When carved, a piece of bone will be attached 
to each piece of meat. 

Calf's Tongue, either fresh or pickled, 
should be cut in three pieces, lengthwise. 



PORK. 



Sucking Pig. — This is one of the easiest 
dishes to carve ; and yet, out of two hundred 
gentlemen who were on a picnic, but one of 
them felt competent to carve a roast pig. Send 
the pig to table whole, with the head to the 
right-hand, and tail to the left-hand side. First 
cut off the head, and split it in two. Split the 
body down the back, and place the parts on 
the dish, crackling side up. 

Cut off the fore-legs, with blade attached ; 
next cut off the hind-quarters, and divide the 
ribs, arranging the meat as neatly as possible on 
the dish. Serve a little stuffing to each guest. 

A dish of small baked apples is more present- 
able than apple sauce. 

Leg of Pork. — This is the only leg of a 
domestic animal which I think is improved by 
boning and stuffing. 

Select a leg weighing not over five pounds, 
stuff it, and score the rind in diamonds ; place it 



TO CARVE A HAM. 23 

in a pan, and dredge it with salt ; place a papei 
over it to prevent the crackling from burning ; 
let this remain for half an hour, then remove, 
and cook the joint for one and a half hours 
longer in a not too hot oven. 

One word to those who advocate basting this 
joint. When the fire is too hot, the rind is 
very apt to burn, and then it may be slightly 
basted ; but otherwise do not baste it, if you 
love crisp crackling. Should the joint receive 
the amount of basting recommended by some 
writers, a gummy rind will be the result, which 
nothing short of the stomach of an ostrich could 
digest. 

To carve a Ham. — Much depends on how 
the ham is to be used. A family desiring fried 
or broiled ham should split the ham lengthwise, 
and then cut thin, even slices across the grain. 
The half with the bone in it may be boiled or 
baked, if the family is a small one. When a 
whole ham appears on the table, the cook should 
see to it that its appearance is improved as much 
as possible. It should be neatly trimmed round 
the edges, and the fat should be free from rust. 
The rind, if left on, should be scalloped at the 
broad end in a neat manner. To carve a whole 
ham, make an incision in the thickest part of 
the ham down to the bone, and work towards 



24 THE DOMESTIC DUCK. 

the large end. The knife used for carving a 
ham should be very thin and very sharp, or the 
shces will be uneven, — a very objectionable 
feature. 



POULTRY AND "GAME. 

The Domestic Duck. — The novice in 
carving quickly discovers that the domestic duck 
is the most exasperating fowl he has to contend 
with. 

Twist the wings under the duck, and truss the 
legs close to the body and under the vent. In 
this way they are out of the way. 

After roasting, place it on the platter, with the 
tail towards you, and the head from you. 

The usual instructions are to " insert the fork 
firmly across the ridge of the breast ;" but, when 
this is done, the tines make two unsightly grooves 
in four slices of the best part of the duck (two 
on each side of the ridge). 

The author finds it easier to insert the fork in 
the left side, close down to the backbone, the 
ends of the tines penetrating the back to secure 
a firm hold. 

First, cut three thin slices from the right side 
of the breast, holding the knife almost flat 
against the breast. Now cut off the wing, which 



TO CARVE A GOOSE. 25 

is only in the way, and contains "poor pickin's." 
Continue carving the breast until the wish-bone 
prevents further progress ; then carve the other 
side in the same manner. The carver may 
change the position of the fork if he desires, 
but old carvers do not do so. After carving the 
breast, and having removed the wings, separate 
the wish-bone, or merry-thought, from the 
breast-bone ; free it from the shoulders, which 
is a somewhat troublesome operation for begin- 
ners. The legs may be removed, if there is not 
breast enough for all ; but they are not a 
particularly dainty cut, and most carvers leave 
them for the servants. 

The best rule for the inexperienced carver to 
follow is to carve the breast in the best manner 
possible, and omit carving or trying to separate 
the joints, as there is but little to be gained. 

To carve a Goose. — Much of the fore- 
going instructions for carving a duck apply to 
the goose. The breast is the choice part, and 
the joints are difficult to find and separate. 

Cut the slices from the breast quite thin, 
holding the knife quite flat against the bird, as 
otherwise one is very apt to cut uneven slices. 

The stuffing is so thoroughly soaked with 
goose grease, that it should not be served to any 
one but " day-laborers." 



26 TO CARVE A CANVAS-BACK DUCK. 

To carve a Canvas-back Duck. — Half 
a duck is considered a portion, and each guest 
is supposed to receive half of the plump, juicy 
flesh of the breast. This is the rule at banquets 
and at club dinners. 

For private families, however, the author 
recommends that the breast be divided into four 
pieces, as otherwise the dinner would be too 
expensive for the average household. 

To carve, place the duck on the platter, breast 
up, and head from you. Insert the fork through 
the centre of the wish-bone, or merry-thought ; 
press firmly on the fork, which inclines slightly 
from you, so that the points of the fork are 
firmly imbedded in the back. 

The position of the hand on the fork is the 
reverse of the ordinary manner of holding it; 
that is, the thumb extends towards the end of 
the handle. In this way a very firm grip is 
obtained, and the fork is out of the way of the 
knife. If the fork pierces the centre of the breast, 
it prevents the knife from working close to the 
breast-bone ridge, where lies a most toothsome 
morsel. Make the first cut along the right-hand 
side of the ridge, keeping very close to it, and 
cut down to the flat breast-bone ; follow this, 
and free the meat from the lower part of the 
breast, and work up to the shoulder, and around 



RED-HEAD DUCK. 



27 



that side of the wish-bone. Turn the meat over 
with the knife, exposing the shoulder joint ; 
separate it here, and serve. While this may 
appear complicated to some, it is but the work 
of a moment. Carve the left side in the same 
manner. 

Red-head Duck. — Many claim there is 
but a slight difference between this duck and 
the foregoing, and that it is almost impossible to 
discover this difference. 

Aside from the difference in flavor of the 
flesh, and shape and color of head and bill, there 
is a vast difference between these birds ; and the 
close observing carver cannot be deceived. The 
red-head is carved, however, in the same manner 
as the canvas-back. 

Teal Duck. — Select a blue-wing instead of 
a green-wing teal. This duck should be split in 
two lengthwise before it is sent to table. 

Spring Chicken. — To know when a broiler 
is fat and juicy, one should examine the back- 
bone. The greater the amount of fat along the 
vertebrae, the fatter will be the chicken in all 
other parts of the body. Should the wattles and 
comb look dull, dingy, or of a leaden color, the 
bird should be rejected, as sickness is thereby 
indicated. A roasted chicken is placed on 
table with the head from you j the first cut is a 



28 BOILED CAPON. 

slight one on the right breast down to the wing ; 
and, without lifting the knife, the latter is re- 
moved. Next the leg is cut off. Third, cut 
away the wing and leg of left side. Fourth, 
cut the breast in two by separating it from the 
back ; turn the breast, and spHt it in two from 
the inside. 

A large chicken is carved much the same as a 
turkey or capon, which see. 

Boiled Capon. — A capon is at its best 
boiled ; but, as with nearly all boiled fowls, a very 
sharp knife is necessary in carving the breast. 
A dull knife will tear the flesh, and produce un- 
sightly slices. 

Truss the fowl with twine instead of skewers, 
and, when cooked, place it on the platter, tail 
towards you, and head from you. 

Insert the fork well forward in the breast, and 
cut away the strings, which should have been 
removed before the bird was sent to table. 

First, cut a very thin slice from the right-hand 
side of the breast, down to, and including, the 
wing-bone. 

Second and third, cut the skin on both sides 
of the second joint ; press the knife gently out- 
ward, and you will quickly discover where the 
joint is attached to the back ; separate them. 
Now take another fork (leaving the first fork in 



ROAST TURKEY. 29 

the breast), and divide the drum-stick from the 
second joint while it is in hand. Cut the second 
joint in two lengthwise. 

Next, cut neat, full-sized slices from the breast 
until the knife is obstructed by the wish-bone, 
which separate from the breast-bone and right 
shoulder only ; for, should it be cut completely 
off, the slices of breast on the left-hand side 
would be smaller than they should be. Gently 
draw the bird over on its left side, and with one 
quick, sharp stroke with the knife, cut part way 
through the right centre of the back. Cut 
from the Pope's nose along the back, up to 
this cut, to procure the side bone. The left 
side is carved in the same manner as herein 
described. 

Roast Turkey. — Truss the bird with twine 
instead of skewers ; place the cooked bird, 
with the head from you, on a large platter. 
Have ready one small and one large knife, 
one small and one large fork. Insert the 
large fork through the centre of the breast, 
the tines astraddle of the ridge. Cut away the 
twine, and cut two thin slices of white meat 
from the breast down to the shoulder. Now 
divide the wing from the shoulder, which, if done 
before cutting the two slices, that part of the 
fowl and the upper ends of the slices will be 



30 SQUAB. 

ragged. The expert will next divide the drum- 
stick from the second joint; but the beginner 
should cut above the second joint down towards 
the back, then cut on the lower side, press the 
joint gently outward with the knife, and with 
the point of the knife neatly, and seemingly with- 
out effort, divide the joints. 

Now use the small knife and fork to separate 
the drum-stick and second joint, and also to 
divide the latter while in hand. Slice off the 
breast in wide, long, and not too thin slices. 
Cut off the Pope's nose, and the side bone, as 
described in article on capon. The "oysters" 
on the back belong with the side bones, and 
should not be detached from them. The wish- 
bone should be separated from the breast-bone 
and shoulder ; and a quick stroke will separate 
the collar-bone from the breast; another will 
give you the shoulder blade, around which is 
fair "picking." The left side is carved the same 
as the right side, and it is considered quite an 
accomplishment to be able to carve with the left 
hand as well as the right. 

Squab. — When a dinner consists of many 
courses, and guests are surfeited, a roasted 
squab, or even a broiled squab, may be split in 
two ; but, under all ordinary circumstances, each 
guest should receive a whole bird. 



ENGLISH PHFASANTS. 3 I 

English Pheasants. — These birds are 
quite plentiful, but dear during winter, and are 
quite frequently met with at private dinners. 

Owing to the long sea voyage, they are quite 
strongly flavored, or rather gamey, by the time 
they reach our tables ; and we advise that only 
the breast be served. Each side of the breast 
may be divided into two slices. 

The legs and thighs should only be served to 
those who advocate " high game." 

Prairie Chicken. — Lard the breast neatly 
with a larding needle, or place a thin slice of 
larding pork over the breast, and secure it when 
trussing the bird. When roasted, remove the 
twine, insert the fork on the left-hand side, and 
place the bird with its head from you. Cut both 
legs from the body; and, if intended for two 
persons, carve the breast from the right side in 
one whole piece by cutting close to the ridge 
first, then slipping the knife along the breast- 
bone down to the shoulder, and removing the 
wing at the same time. Carve the left in 
the same manner. 



32 FISH. 



FISH. 



The flounder, the Enghsh sole, and the small 
chicken halibut are carved thus : Divide the 
fish lengthwise down to the bone, run the fish- 
knife along the sides from head to tail ; then 
divide each half in three-inch pieces if the fish 
is a thin one, and two-inch pieces if a thick one. 

Remove the bone as soon as exposed, and 
divide the under side in the same manner. 

A shoulder of cod, or a piece of salmon, is 
served best if the fish is divided, and the upper 
piece placed on the dish, then divided into por- 
tions. The bone is then removed from the 
lower piece, and it is divided into portions. 

To divide the toj) piece into portions, as is 
usually done, we find, that, no matter how care- 
ful in serving, the lower part of the fish is 
bruised. 



SERVING SAUCES WITH MEATS. 33 



SERVING SAUCES WITH MEATS. 

Do not pour a sauce over a portion of meat 
unless you have some special object in view; 
for instance, should you find a slice of roast beef 
too rare, pour the hot gravy over it, and it will 
look " medium " done. If the beef is very dry, 
as is apt to be the case with frozen meats, pour 
a litde of the sauce or gravy on the dish first, 
and then add the meat. It will look juicy, and 
the gravy on the dish will look as though it had 
run out of the meat. 

When boiled mutton is too rare or too well 
done, pour the sauce over the meat, and then 
strew over it a few capers. 

When the meat is just as ordered, either send 
the sauce to table in a boat, or serve it on one 
side of the meat. 



REMARKS ON BONING MEAT. 

Many writers recommend the removal of all 
bone before cooking the meat. They say " it 
facilitates carving. ' ' Perhaps it does ; but " boned 
meat" does not possess the same deUcious 
flavor as meat cooked with the bone. 



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